Showing posts with label bermuda. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bermuda. Show all posts

Monday, November 4, 2013

CrabGrass Control



Improper application timing in many cases is the leading cause of crabgrass breakthrough. Applied to late, crabgrass will germinate and begin growth before the herbicide is incorporated into the soil. Applications made to early will have a depleted residual before all weed’s seeds have germinated. This is also where slow release fertilizer could work against you as you may be feeding the weed’s seeds by accident. SumaGreen Turf, which can be applied with herbicides, can help reduce the outbreak of crabgrass by not giving it any room to grow by feeding grass right then and possible smothering out the crabgrass. SumaGreen with SumaGrow inside tends to keep grass all grasses (fescue, bermuda, kentucky bluegrass, St augustine, etc) thicker which makes things more difficult o the crabgrass. Crabgrass can be one of the most difficult weeds to control. There are many factors involved when attempting to control crabgrass by pre-emergent herbicides. These include herbicide selection, application rates, soils, cultural practices, environmental factors and most importantly timing.


When it comes to application timing there are a few theories that are used regarding application. These theories have some relevancy but with changing weather patterns a more precise determination may be necessary. Pre emergent timing is often based off of ornamental plant activity. These plants may include forsythia and lilac. It is often recommended to apply pre emergent herbicides when these plants begin to bloom. This theory is pretty accurate but does the germination of crabgrass really correlate with these plants?

A good example of this would be a short period of above normal temperatures, though misleading. These temperatures may cause ornamental plants to bloom but the soil temperatures may remain the same or increase only a little. Also, the ornamental plants may have certain stresses on them which may delay the blooming period. Another theory is based on the thickness of your lawn that can be used. This theory suggests a thin lawn should have herbicides applied a little early and later applications for thicker lawn in regards to forsythia blooming. As we have all seen crabgrass germinates and thrives in thick healthy turf as well as weak thin turf. For these reasons we must monitor soil temperatures when attempting to time herbicide applications.

By monitoring the soil temperature many turf maintenance companies can accurately plan for crabgrass germination. By most indications crabgrass will germinate when the soil temperatures reach 50o to 55o F for at least 3 days. This is also a good temperature (can apply SumaGreen Turf when temps are above 45o) to apply SumaGreen Turf. An example mentioned above, turf density can affect how the germination can continue to germinate into the summer. With inconsistency in weather patterns crabgrass is germinating earlier in certain areas. Unseasonably warm winter temperatures may cause earlier herbicide application resulting in subsequent applications thereafter. Several Universities base herbicide application timing by the temperatures of the soil.

To confidently make recommendations on application timing it is important to monitor the soil temperatures. The use of soil thermometers to record daily temperatures can provide accurate data for application timing. Soil temperatures should be monitored in the general area near client’s location and can be a valuable service for them as well as other clients in area. Accurate recommendations along with quality herbicides will provide us with the tools we need to insure good crabgrass control.

Friday, October 18, 2013

Overseeding your Lawn .....A MUST and Why Organic Lawn care is needed

We can all contribute to a better ecosystem, and incorporating organic lawn care in our lawn maintenance plan, is a great place to start. Each year, billions of dollars are spent on chemicals and pesticides for lawn care to keep the more than 30 million acres of turf in the United States healthy. Because pesticides can be harmful on an already fragile ecosystem it's important to avail ourselves of other eco-friendly methods of lawn care.
 

Organic lawn care is easier and less expensive than you might think. Furthermore, a lawn maintained with organic methods is much healthier in the long run, for instance:
  • They withstand drought more easily
  • They are less susceptible to pest and disease problems
  • They can be enjoyed, by people and pets without worry about getting sick 

LAWN OVERSEEDING can help you take your lawn (Golf Course, client's lawns) from so so to sensational.  Most people think just by throwing some seed on your old turf will get you the great lawn you are going for.  Not true!  Follow these tips to make sure you do overseeding right.

Tip #1 - Time it Right

Time of year is VERY important for seeding of grasses (Bermuda, Fescue, Alfalfa (for farmers), St. Augustine, Kentucky Blue grass, etc).  If you're overseeding with a cool season grass, do it in the Fall, the peak growing time for cool season grasses. For warm season grasses, think Spring.

Tip #2 - Prep your Soil

Give the soil the nourishment it needs to last and help grass to grow.  Remove thatch, and consider aerating your lawn. Loosen the soil with a strong raking as well. This is also a great time to test your soil and amend your soil, whether it's upping its phosphorous levels or adjusting its pH.  SumaGreen products (SumaGreen Turf) will benefit these needs and give your soil and grass everything it will need to properly grow better.  Some starter fertilizer may help but at very low dose if using the SumaGreen Turf.

Tip #3 - Mow Your Lawn Short

Scalp your lawn!  Yes, the same conditions that give weeds an easy entrance also makes it easy for you newly overseeded lawn to take hold. You want your new lawn seeds to have as much contact with the soil as possible, so scalp away. 

Tip #4 - Sow Seed Heavily

For lawn overseeding to succeed, you need a lot of seeds. You should plan to double the seeding you would do if you were putting the seeds down on straight soil with no existing turf.   Since you are trying to grow the grass you want to give yourself the best chances to succeed the FIRST time.

Tip #5 - Baby Your Lawn

Even though you have existing turf, your new sprouts are just as delicate as a completely new lawn, so treat your yard accordingly. Put a protective light top soil, spray SumaGreen Turf  with SumaGrow inside at 4 oz per 1000 sq/ft for quicker germination of seed, water, water, water, and stay off the grass for a few weeks.  To properly measure the water you can put a small cup in your yard to measure (Approximately) how much water you are putting down.  Only put an inch of water on grass.  Of course water in early morning and late evening so moisture stays in grass during hot days.  Also OVER  watering is bad so try to use best judgement and avoid puddling on grass.

Tip#6 - Sit back and Enjoy your NEW Plush grass.
     
     

Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Simple steps to accurate sprayer calibration

Calibrating sprayers involves selecting the proper nozzles, spraying pressure, and speed of travel. There are several different ways to accurately calibrate a sprayer, but the simplest is the 1/128th acre (340 sq.ft.) method, also called the “baby bottle” method. The spray collected from a single nozzle measured in ounces directly converts to gallons per acre regardless of the number of nozzles on the boom. Because there are 128 ounces in a gallon, the ounces collected from 1/128th of an acre will equal gallons of solution per acre. Remember in most crops One Gallon of SumaGreen Ag with SumaGrow inside will treat one acre of crops mixed with 30 gallons of water.
Follow the 10 easy steps below to avoid needless chemical waste, improper application, and potential turf injury.


1. Fill sprayer with water. Use only clean water to calibrate sprayer.
2. Measure the distance (in inches) between nozzles on the spray boom. Then refer to chart below to obtain test course distance (in feet).
3. To check the uniformity of all nozzles on the boom, collect the spray from each nozzle for the same amount of time (ex. 1 minute). If the flow rate of any spray tip is 10% greater or less than that of the others, replace it. Whatever the type of sprayer tips you use, be sure they are all the same type.
4. Measure the course distance (in feet) according to the chart and flag it for easy visibility.
5. Drive the test course at an acceptable spraying speed with the sprayer on. Make note of the engine RPM’s, and most importantly, record the seconds it takes to travel the measured distance between the two flags. Be sure to take a “running start” to the beginning flag, and drive beyond the ending flag to maintain a uniform speed within the flagged distance.
6. Park the tractor/sprayer, set the brakes, but keep the engine RPM’s at the same setting used to drive the test course and make any final sprayer pressure adjustments (this will vary with the type of spray tips you use and the gallons per minute you wish to spray through them).
7. Using a plastic measuring container that is marked in ounces, collect the water sprayed from one nozzle for the same amount of time it took to drive the test course.
8. The amount of water collected in ounces will equal the gallons applied per acre.
9. Be sure to read all product labels for proper application information, use rates, etc.
10. While making applications maintain continuous engine RPM’s and ground speed used in test run.
Nozzle spacing and distance chart for 1/128th acre.
Nozzle Spacing (in) Distance (ft)
         6                           681
         8                           510
       10                           408
       12                           340
      14                            292
      16                            255
      18                            227
      20                            204
      22                            186
      24                            170
      26                            157
      28                            146
      30                            136

For a backpack or other single nozzle sprayers this same method will still work. Simply determine the width of the spray pattern to get the distance. Or, fill the sprayer completely with water then spray an area equal to 340 sq. ft. (20’ x 17’). The ounces of water required to refill the sprayer will equal gallons per acre.

Credit to Dr. Wayne Wells is an Extension Professor and Turfgrass Specialist at Mississippi State University.

Friday, October 11, 2013

Grass in Michigan that never looked better before SumaGreen Turf



Anthony Smith, Michigan
My name is Anthony and I live in Royal Oak, MI. I have been using Sumagreen Turf on my 100% Kentucky Bluegrass sod I had installed at a rate of 4 oz per application for a few months now.   My grass has been a deep green even in the shaded portion of my lawn since I started using Sumagreen Turf.  My lawn just looks overall much healthier and deeper green while using Sumagreen compared to when I wasn’t’ using it.  It has become thick and lush with a dense deep green look that I have desired since installing my sod.
Thank you for such an awesome product.

Anthony
www.SumaGreen.com
SumaGrow inside

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

SumaGreen Testimonial 

Crownover Green Organic Lawn Care - Wake Forest, NC

  
Here is out latest testimonial from an LCO in North Carolina. As you can see from the pictures the lawns are beautiful and are low in stress growing. Here is what Crownover Green had to say about our SumaGreen Turf: As a new organic lawn care company in Wake Forest, NC we researched and experimented with Sumagreen Turf as well as a few other bio soil enhancers and fertilizers during 2012, and we unequivocally chose Sumagreen as part of our comprehensive organic lawn care solution for 2013. It gives our clients' turf a dark green color and seems to keep the lawns greener when other lawns are showing signs of drought stress. We apply Sumagreen on all of our client's lawns throughout the growing season and are very happy with the results. 
Regards, Rodney Crownover

You name the grass from Fescue, Bermuda, even to Kentucky Bluegrass SumaGreen Turf is your answer.


SumaGreen Turf with SumaGrow inside

Friday, October 4, 2013

Laying Sod Made Easy


Here are simple steps to a Do it your own Sod lawn.

Measuring & ordering ---- Sod is usually sold by the square foot. Get the width times length to determine your square feet you need. If you have an unusual shape make a sketch of the lawn, with the length, width, and any unusual features to help determine the amount of turfgrass sod you will need for your area. Schedule the sod order for delivery after preparatory work is completed and you are ready to install. Prompt installation on the day of delivery is crucial to a strong beginning for your lawn. 


Soil preparation ----- New Lawn - Grade to slope away from home, fill in all depressions, so no water lays. Leave final grade 1" below sidewalks and curbs. Add SumaGreen Turf at a rate of 2 oz per 1000 sq/ft on to the soil. Old Lawn - Strip old grass and thatch layer to bare soil or completely destroy old lawn with rototiller and repeat
the steps above.


Sod installation
--- Begin installing turf along the longest straight line, such as the driveway or sidewalk. Push edges against each other tightly, without stretching. Avoid gaps or overlaps. Stagger the joints in each row in a brick-like fashion, using a large sharp knife to trim corners, etc. Avoid leaving small strips at outer edges as they will not retain moisture. On slopes, place the turf pieces across the slope.


After installing the turf  roll the entire area to improve turf soil contact and remove air pockets. Water in with SumaGreen Turf at a rate of 2 oz per 1000 sq/ft as soon as a sizable area has been sodded (total used 4 oz per 1000 sq/ft during process). Give your new lawn 1 inch of water within the 1/2 hour of installation. Water daily, or more often, keeping turf moist until firmly rooted. Without SumaGreen Turf this process could take as long as two – three weeks but with SumaGreen Turf it should start taking root in 7-10 days. By the second week you should be able to cut back on watering in as the roots have started to take shape deeper in the ground.
Weather conditions will dictate the amount and frequency of watering. Be certain that your new lawn has enough moisture to survive hot, dry, or windy periods. Water areas near building more often where reflected heat dries the turf.


Caution --- Normally during the first three weeks after sod has been laid you would avoid heavy or concentrated use of your new lawn. This gives the roots an opportunity to firmly knit with the soil, and insures that the turf will remain smooth. But with SumaGreen Turf you should be able to at least enjoy the lawn (depending on weather conditions) after two weeks. Any heavy playing on sod, like an athletic field, we recommend 3-4 weeks to get the roots to grow deeper, and stronger. This will at longer life to the grass due to the cutting and maintenance of the turf.
Maintenance --- Your new sod will increase your property value significantly. With proper care using the SumaGreen Turf you will only need to treat about 3-4 times a year and you will notice weeds will have a hard time appearing in your sod. It will remain a great asset, providing beauty, clean playing surface, and an improved environment.


***TIPS-- A trick of the trade is to order 5% more than what your measurements are, to allow for trimming and waist.


Our products work just as good on existing grass like Bermuda, Fescue, even Kentucky Bluegrass.