CrabGrass Control

Improper application timing in many cases is the leading cause of crabgrass breakthrough. Applied to late, crabgrass will germinate and begin growth before the herbicide is incorporated into the soil. Applications made to early will have a depleted residual before all weed’s seeds have germinated. This is also where slow release fertilizer could work against you as you may be feeding the weed’s seeds by accident. SumaGreen Turf, which can be applied with herbicides, can help reduce the outbreak of crabgrass by not giving it any room to grow by feeding grass right then and possible smothering out the crabgrass. SumaGreen with SumaGrow inside tends to keep grass all grasses (fescue, bermuda, kentucky bluegrass, St augustine, etc) thicker which makes things more difficult o the crabgrass. Crabgrass can be one of the most difficult weeds to control. There are many factors involved when attempting to control crabgrass by pre-emergent herbicides. These include herbicide selection, application rates, soils, cultural practices, environmental factors and most importantly timing.

When it comes to application timing there are a few theories that are used regarding application. These theories have some relevancy but with changing weather patterns a more precise determination may be necessary. Pre emergent timing is often based off of ornamental plant activity. These plants may include forsythia and lilac. It is often recommended to apply pre emergent herbicides when these plants begin to bloom. This theory is pretty accurate but does the germination of crabgrass really correlate with these plants?

A good example of this would be a short period of above normal temperatures, though misleading. These temperatures may cause ornamental plants to bloom but the soil temperatures may remain the same or increase only a little. Also, the ornamental plants may have certain stresses on them which may delay the blooming period. Another theory is based on the thickness of your lawn that can be used. This theory suggests a thin lawn should have herbicides applied a little early and later applications for thicker lawn in regards to forsythia blooming. As we have all seen crabgrass germinates and thrives in thick healthy turf as well as weak thin turf. For these reasons we must monitor soil temperatures when attempting to time herbicide applications.

By monitoring the soil temperature many turf maintenance companies can accurately plan for crabgrass germination. By most indications crabgrass will germinate when the soil temperatures reach 50o to 55o F for at least 3 days. This is also a good temperature (can apply SumaGreen Turf when temps are above 45o) to apply SumaGreen Turf. An example mentioned above, turf density can affect how the germination can continue to germinate into the summer. With inconsistency in weather patterns crabgrass is germinating earlier in certain areas. Unseasonably warm winter temperatures may cause earlier herbicide application resulting in subsequent applications thereafter. Several Universities base herbicide application timing by the temperatures of the soil.

To confidently make recommendations on application timing it is important to monitor the soil temperatures. The use of soil thermometers to record daily temperatures can provide accurate data for application timing. Soil temperatures should be monitored in the general area near client’s location and can be a valuable service for them as well as other clients in area. Accurate recommendations along with quality herbicides will provide us with the tools we need to insure good crabgrass control.

WHY TURF DISEASES HAPPEN

The traditional disease triangle components of host, pathogen and environment influence the degree of damage that’s experienced from north to south, in residential lawns to commercial lawns. These can be found on all species of turfgrass like Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, and different types of sod. No matter the setting, turf disease is a challenging malady.

When different seasons of year is added to the mix, some considerations change and some remain the same. One difference between many Spring and Fall conditions is the expectation of the customer for the outcome, or the aesthetic appeal, of the turf. In Fall, the tendency is to just sort of give up when the turf starts to look a little stressed and not take any control measures until their turf or commercial property even gold courses are now damaged as a result, and then it’s the LCO’s fault, not theirs. Here is where the use of SumaGreen Turf can help remediate many of these stresses in the turf compared to the 100% fertilized turf. SumaGreen will help bounce the turf back into shape though the time line on this will vary depending on the time of year and the temperature.

How to avoid this from happening until it is too late

Weather conditions often change quickly and an outbreak can suddenly erupt before you know it. Late Summer and Fall turf diseases are weather dependent maladies. The first step in dealing with these causal agents is to regularly inspect lawns. Some people call it scouting and others call it monitoring. Whatever you call it, trained technicians should always be on the lookout for turf damage when they are on your lawn. 

An Inspection should be thorough, close-up look for disease symptoms.

There are several ways to go about these inspections. With the nature of the variety of services provided being the best way to determine the best approach. It’s not essential that every applicator, or technician become a turfgrass pathologist, just that they are able to identify that something’s wrong with the turf. This requires a thorough investigation.

Another opportunity for inspection can be taken when they are on your lawn for an application of the SumaGreen Turf. When you are applying Fertilizer (if not using SumaGreen Turf) applicators finish with product dispersal and are blowing material from impervious surfaces (such as sidewalks and driveways) back to the turf areas. The Applicator’s observations about different colored turf can be noted and communicated to other staff better versed in diagnosis. This is step is never the case with SumaGreen Turf as it is a liquid application and gives the applicator and even color for the grass and nothing to blow back on grass from sidewalk or driveway. Regardless of the arrangement, regular inspection is a good idea.

 *** Picture taken (above) is what a lawn would look like that is still using granular fertilizers blown back onto the grass from driveway and sidewalk.   See the random brown spots along the sidewalk. This is just another good reason to use SumaGreen Turf with Sumagrow inside.

SumaGreen Testimonial 

Crownover Green Organic Lawn Care - Wake Forest, NC

  

Here is out latest testimonial from an LCO in North Carolina. As you can see from the pictures the lawns are beautiful and are low in stress growing. Here is what Crownover Green had to say about our SumaGreen Turf: As a new organic lawn care company in Wake Forest, NC we researched and experimented with Sumagreen Turf as well as a few other bio soil enhancers and fertilizers during 2012, and we unequivocally chose Sumagreen as part of our comprehensive organic lawn care solution for 2013. It gives our clients' turf a dark green color and seems to keep the lawns greener when other lawns are showing signs of drought stress. We apply Sumagreen on all of our client's lawns throughout the growing season and are very happy with the results. 

Regards, Rodney Crownover

You name the grass from Fescue, Bermuda, even to Kentucky Bluegrass SumaGreen Turf is your answer.


SumaGreen Turf with SumaGrow inside

Laying Sod Made Easy

Here are simple steps to a Do it your own Sod lawn.

Measuring & ordering ---- Sod is usually sold by the square foot. Get the width times length to determine your square feet you need. If you have an unusual shape make a sketch of the lawn, with the length, width, and any unusual features to help determine the amount of turfgrass sod you will need for your area. Schedule the sod order for delivery after preparatory work is completed and you are ready to install. Prompt installation on the day of delivery is crucial to a strong beginning for your lawn. 

Soil preparation ----- New Lawn - Grade to slope away from home, fill in all depressions, so no water lays. Leave final grade 1" below sidewalks and curbs. Add SumaGreen Turf at a rate of 2 oz per 1000 sq/ft on to the soil. Old Lawn - Strip old grass and thatch layer to bare soil or completely destroy old lawn with rototiller and repeat the steps above.

Sod installation --- Begin installing turf along the longest straight line, such as the driveway or sidewalk. Push edges against each other tightly, without stretching. Avoid gaps or overlaps. Stagger the joints in each row in a brick-like fashion, using a large sharp knife to trim corners, etc. Avoid leaving small strips at outer edges as they will not retain moisture. On slopes, place the turf pieces across the slope.

After installing the turf  roll the entire area to improve turf soil contact and remove air pockets. Water in with SumaGreen Turf at a rate of 2 oz per 1000 sq/ft as soon as a sizable area has been sodded (total used 4 oz per 1000 sq/ft during process). Give your new lawn 1 inch of water within the 1/2 hour of installation. Water daily, or more often, keeping turf moist until firmly rooted. Without SumaGreen Turf this process could take as long as two – three weeks but with SumaGreen Turf it should start taking root in 7-10 days. By the second week you should be able to cut back on watering in as the roots have started to take shape deeper in the ground.
Weather conditions will dictate the amount and frequency of watering. Be certain that your new lawn has enough moisture to survive hot, dry, or windy periods. Water areas near building more often where reflected heat dries the turf.

Caution --- Normally during the first three weeks after sod has been laid you would avoid heavy or concentrated use of your new lawn. This gives the roots an opportunity to firmly knit with the soil, and insures that the turf will remain smooth. But with SumaGreen Turf you should be able to at least enjoy the lawn (depending on weather conditions) after two weeks. Any heavy playing on sod, like an athletic field, we recommend 3-4 weeks to get the roots to grow deeper, and stronger. This will at longer life to the grass due to the cutting and maintenance of the turf.
Maintenance --- Your new sod will increase your property value significantly. With proper care using the SumaGreen Turf you will only need to treat about 3-4 times a year and you will notice weeds will have a hard time appearing in your sod. It will remain a great asset, providing beauty, clean playing surface, and an improved environment.

***TIPS-- A trick of the trade is to order 5% more than what your measurements are, to allow for trimming and waist.

Our products work just as good on existing grass like Bermuda, Fescue, even Kentucky Bluegrass.

SumaGreen