Showing posts with label organic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label organic. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

Fun in the Snow at our Richie, Montana seminar for SumaGreen

What a success at our seminar in Richie, Montana.  We had farmers representing over 50,000 acres and over 80% of them ordered product before we packed up all of our stuff to leave.  These crops ranged from Winter Wheat, soybeans, lentils, mustard seeds, and peas.What a great day for both the farmers and SumaGreen.

We had presentations from Steven Elwell, President of SumaGreen; Chuck Granthem, Director of Field trials; and Tristan Veverka, Distributor of SumaGreen.   Chuck a 25 year extension agent of Mississippi, talked about all the results SumaGreen has had from all over the USA along with continued field trials that are happening again this year with our Sumagrow technology on crops from corn to tomatoes and green peppers.  Steve talked about the benefits to farmers by using SumaGreen.   Benefits like Increased yields in ALL crops, Decrease input costs, and reduction of fertilizer usage of 50-100%  while having farmers report how our SumaGreen has helped reduce diseases in their crops.  Also while talking about our OMRI (Organic products) listed products for Organic farmers.  Then Tristan showed results from his own farm (now going on their third year of usage) showing increased yields on peas, wheat and mustard seeds from 15-25% while saving money in input costs on his farm.

                                         Chuck Grantham, Director of Field Trials

If you are interested in knowing more about Sumagreen or want to know where we will be in the future please contact our website at SumaGreen.com

Wednesday, January 8, 2014

See SumaGreen at the Minnesota Trade Show January 8th - 10th

Come see our Distributor Kevin Fields at the Northern Green Expo in Minnnesota.  Kevin will be there ready to take your order and answer all of your questions that you may have about the award winning SumaGrow technology of SumaGreen.

Let Kevin answer all of your questions on Organic farming, Ladnscaping, Increase yields, decrease production costs, results compared to fertilizer, field trials, etc.  

Northern Green Expo
at the Minneapolis convention center
Wed. Jan 8th thru Fri. Jan. 10th
Booth #313

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Get garden ready for Spring planting full of Organic Matter

Then do not look to far just do what we recommend and start enjoying the most bountiful Harvest you have ever gotten next Summer and Fall!

Grass clippings are a great source of organic matter. Throughout the Spring and Summer they can be used in the middle of the rows and around plants to keep weeds from getting a foothold. My father had us do this in our own garden but we just wanted to keep the weeds down and let’s face it who likes to WEED?
The grass clippings will also keep moisture evaporation down to a minimum. If these are SumaGreen Turf grass clippings the breakdown of the clippings will be a little faster. The grass being so finely chopped, the clippings disappear completely into the soil by Fall. Later in the season you may have a surplus of grass clippings on your hands. Spread them over the empty spaces in your garden or flowerbed and till them under into the soil.

Ashes from a fireplace or fire pit make great fertilizer for flowers and vegetables because of its high phosphorus and potash numbers. Do not use them around acid-loving plants for they make the ground "sweeter."

For those living in the country and have chickens, the old bedding makes an excellent soil builder. It's true, the sawdust or wood shavings lock up the nitrogen until the decomposing process is completed; but the high level of nitrogen present in the chicken litter balances this out. If you have been using the SumaGreen Ag in your garden this will break down the chicken litter a lot faster and go easy on the sawdust to make sure it is not clumped into one spot.

There are some things I did not mention, like cow manure and composting. I think everyone is fairly aware of the tremendous benefit they are to the soil. The downside is the smell and being manure not so many people like spreading it around. When using the SumaGreen Ag in you garden there is no need for the manure. There are however, some things that should NOT be put into the garden or flowerbed. Such things as dog and cat manure. The pathogen and parasite levels tend to be very high. The presence of tapeworm, roundworm, and hookworm larva make it risky business to use these as a soil builder.

For those making your own compost piles from leaves be careful as some leaves are harmful to gardens. Leaves of the black walnut and butternut trees should be avoided if possible because of tree-produced toxins. This all goes back to people saying that SumaGreen is a type of compost. True to a point but we manufacture our microbes to make sure you ONLY get all the GOOD microbes needed for growing crops / grass. Compost piles tend to have some good and some bad microbes. This is why your garden may get good results one year and bad results another year. Where with SumaGreen products you will always get that bountiful garden year after year.

Remember get your SumaGreen on that garden at seeding time, treat the garden again 4-5 weeks later, and then ENJOY the best tasting apples, oranges, pears, tomatoes, corn, soy beans, collared greens, pumpkins, watermelons, and even have the most beautiful flowers as well.
Go to our SumaGreen facebook page and see some other results and what everyone has to say.

Monday, October 28, 2013

Research & Development of SumaGreen products with Sumagrow inside. "If it has a root system we can help it"



The technology of SumaGreen products have been expanded and perfected through vigorous research and development over the last 10 years. SumaGreen is manufactured in a 25,000 square
foot manufacturing facility (was named the Second fastest growing manufacturing plant in the USA - #77 in the World -2013) housing specialized laboratories, blending operations and soil testing equipment utilizing the latest in technological offerings.
In addition to in-house laboratory research, extensive field research has been conducted through:

Greenhouse studies (several Universities)
Replicated plot trials
Specialized testing facilities (ARISE research facility in Illinois along with others)

Products containing this technology has been evaluated in various soil types and climate conditions throughout the United States as well as China, India, Vietnam, Honduras, Africa and others. Row crops, forage and hay crops, vegetable crops, fruit and citrus crops, ornamental flowers, and lawns and recreational turfs are reflective of the crops evaluated using this technology.

This technology has been rigorously challenged and is continuously tested to maintain and expand its abilities in the following areas:
Increase crop yields (10-20%)
Improve soil health and fertility
Reduce the toxicity of chemical fertilizers (reductions of 50-100%)
Improve nutrient uptake
Farm/Ranch field trials (over 20 different states)
Enhance the uptake of phosphorus
Increase the movement of iron in the soil
Loosen tight and compacted soils (Due to longer root systems)
Improve the soil moisture condition
Increase organic matter
Increase the water holding capacity (deeper roots= deeper water table)
Hold exchangeable plant nutrients in the soil
Improve micronutrient nutrition by chelation
Improve the aeration of soil

Research results have overwhelming shown that SumaGrow:

Increases crop yields (10-20% Increases)
Reduces fertilizer dependence
 (50-100% decrease in fertilizer and other inputs)
Raises the nutrient density of food stuffs (Higher Brix levels)
Lowers water needs (about a 1/3 less water needed to grow crops compared to fertilizer)


In addition to improved crop performance, this technology has been evaluated for its efficacy in
remediating soil contaminants, including coal refuse, and reducing soil erosion, nutrient leaching
and water run-off.
Our technology has also been tested for its abilities to decrease nitrate leaching and increase the water retention and holding capacity of soil.
Accurate research and development and excellent product performance requires that the quality
control of SumaGreen will be closely monitored. Special care is taken that no external contamination occurs from preparation to bottling and shipment. Research and development remains the driving force behind the unsurpassed technology and will continue to be central in its expanding role in the conservation of agriculture and sustainable farming.

If you are interested in seeing it work on your farm by growing corn, Soy Beans, Cotton, Tobacco, etc or you are interested in having your Landscaping company use it on your grass or athletic turf contact a representative today.

Monday, October 21, 2013

Organic Garlic Farmer from Conneticutt Barry Butler

Here is what Barry Butler, an Organic Garlic Farmer, that has used the product since 2011.  Here is a picture he sent us and comments about the garlic he has been raising using the SumaGreen Ag with Sumagrow inside product. 


Anyway  I must say I was so happy with the results. I grew some of the best garlic bulbs ever.  Also, on a smaller field just one mile away, but using the same seed crop, manures and minerals as my main field but without the SumaGreen.   I did notice that the bulbs with SumaGreen showed a significant increase in size.

We always get people saying does SumaGreen work on flowers,corn, grass, etc.  Well the best answer is if it has a root system there will be benefits better then you can get with fertilizer.  We can reduce the fertilizer usage from 50-100% in ALL crops.   If you want better tasting, better growth, and a cheaper way of growing crops then you should not look anymore and get your SumaGreen today.

Friday, October 18, 2013

Overseeding your Lawn .....A MUST and Why Organic Lawn care is needed

We can all contribute to a better ecosystem, and incorporating organic lawn care in our lawn maintenance plan, is a great place to start. Each year, billions of dollars are spent on chemicals and pesticides for lawn care to keep the more than 30 million acres of turf in the United States healthy. Because pesticides can be harmful on an already fragile ecosystem it's important to avail ourselves of other eco-friendly methods of lawn care.
 

Organic lawn care is easier and less expensive than you might think. Furthermore, a lawn maintained with organic methods is much healthier in the long run, for instance:
  • They withstand drought more easily
  • They are less susceptible to pest and disease problems
  • They can be enjoyed, by people and pets without worry about getting sick 

LAWN OVERSEEDING can help you take your lawn (Golf Course, client's lawns) from so so to sensational.  Most people think just by throwing some seed on your old turf will get you the great lawn you are going for.  Not true!  Follow these tips to make sure you do overseeding right.

Tip #1 - Time it Right

Time of year is VERY important for seeding of grasses (Bermuda, Fescue, Alfalfa (for farmers), St. Augustine, Kentucky Blue grass, etc).  If you're overseeding with a cool season grass, do it in the Fall, the peak growing time for cool season grasses. For warm season grasses, think Spring.

Tip #2 - Prep your Soil

Give the soil the nourishment it needs to last and help grass to grow.  Remove thatch, and consider aerating your lawn. Loosen the soil with a strong raking as well. This is also a great time to test your soil and amend your soil, whether it's upping its phosphorous levels or adjusting its pH.  SumaGreen products (SumaGreen Turf) will benefit these needs and give your soil and grass everything it will need to properly grow better.  Some starter fertilizer may help but at very low dose if using the SumaGreen Turf.

Tip #3 - Mow Your Lawn Short

Scalp your lawn!  Yes, the same conditions that give weeds an easy entrance also makes it easy for you newly overseeded lawn to take hold. You want your new lawn seeds to have as much contact with the soil as possible, so scalp away. 

Tip #4 - Sow Seed Heavily

For lawn overseeding to succeed, you need a lot of seeds. You should plan to double the seeding you would do if you were putting the seeds down on straight soil with no existing turf.   Since you are trying to grow the grass you want to give yourself the best chances to succeed the FIRST time.

Tip #5 - Baby Your Lawn

Even though you have existing turf, your new sprouts are just as delicate as a completely new lawn, so treat your yard accordingly. Put a protective light top soil, spray SumaGreen Turf  with SumaGrow inside at 4 oz per 1000 sq/ft for quicker germination of seed, water, water, water, and stay off the grass for a few weeks.  To properly measure the water you can put a small cup in your yard to measure (Approximately) how much water you are putting down.  Only put an inch of water on grass.  Of course water in early morning and late evening so moisture stays in grass during hot days.  Also OVER  watering is bad so try to use best judgement and avoid puddling on grass.

Tip#6 - Sit back and Enjoy your NEW Plush grass.
     
     

Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Simple steps to accurate sprayer calibration

Calibrating sprayers involves selecting the proper nozzles, spraying pressure, and speed of travel. There are several different ways to accurately calibrate a sprayer, but the simplest is the 1/128th acre (340 sq.ft.) method, also called the “baby bottle” method. The spray collected from a single nozzle measured in ounces directly converts to gallons per acre regardless of the number of nozzles on the boom. Because there are 128 ounces in a gallon, the ounces collected from 1/128th of an acre will equal gallons of solution per acre. Remember in most crops One Gallon of SumaGreen Ag with SumaGrow inside will treat one acre of crops mixed with 30 gallons of water.
Follow the 10 easy steps below to avoid needless chemical waste, improper application, and potential turf injury.


1. Fill sprayer with water. Use only clean water to calibrate sprayer.
2. Measure the distance (in inches) between nozzles on the spray boom. Then refer to chart below to obtain test course distance (in feet).
3. To check the uniformity of all nozzles on the boom, collect the spray from each nozzle for the same amount of time (ex. 1 minute). If the flow rate of any spray tip is 10% greater or less than that of the others, replace it. Whatever the type of sprayer tips you use, be sure they are all the same type.
4. Measure the course distance (in feet) according to the chart and flag it for easy visibility.
5. Drive the test course at an acceptable spraying speed with the sprayer on. Make note of the engine RPM’s, and most importantly, record the seconds it takes to travel the measured distance between the two flags. Be sure to take a “running start” to the beginning flag, and drive beyond the ending flag to maintain a uniform speed within the flagged distance.
6. Park the tractor/sprayer, set the brakes, but keep the engine RPM’s at the same setting used to drive the test course and make any final sprayer pressure adjustments (this will vary with the type of spray tips you use and the gallons per minute you wish to spray through them).
7. Using a plastic measuring container that is marked in ounces, collect the water sprayed from one nozzle for the same amount of time it took to drive the test course.
8. The amount of water collected in ounces will equal the gallons applied per acre.
9. Be sure to read all product labels for proper application information, use rates, etc.
10. While making applications maintain continuous engine RPM’s and ground speed used in test run.
Nozzle spacing and distance chart for 1/128th acre.
Nozzle Spacing (in) Distance (ft)
         6                           681
         8                           510
       10                           408
       12                           340
      14                            292
      16                            255
      18                            227
      20                            204
      22                            186
      24                            170
      26                            157
      28                            146
      30                            136

For a backpack or other single nozzle sprayers this same method will still work. Simply determine the width of the spray pattern to get the distance. Or, fill the sprayer completely with water then spray an area equal to 340 sq. ft. (20’ x 17’). The ounces of water required to refill the sprayer will equal gallons per acre.

Credit to Dr. Wayne Wells is an Extension Professor and Turfgrass Specialist at Mississippi State University.

Friday, October 11, 2013

Grass in Michigan that never looked better before SumaGreen Turf



Anthony Smith, Michigan
My name is Anthony and I live in Royal Oak, MI. I have been using Sumagreen Turf on my 100% Kentucky Bluegrass sod I had installed at a rate of 4 oz per application for a few months now.   My grass has been a deep green even in the shaded portion of my lawn since I started using Sumagreen Turf.  My lawn just looks overall much healthier and deeper green while using Sumagreen compared to when I wasn’t’ using it.  It has become thick and lush with a dense deep green look that I have desired since installing my sod.
Thank you for such an awesome product.

Anthony
www.SumaGreen.com
SumaGrow inside

Monday, October 7, 2013

Potatoes with SumaGreen

Hear is how word spreads about SumaGreen. A distributor in Minnesota Kevin Fields had a friend that heard about the product and wanted to try it out on his own garden in Montana because he thought it was to good to be true. 

How many words is this picture worth?


Look at the side by side rows of potato crops in Montana. The SumaGreen treated side outperforming the untreated side which, by the way, was planted 2.5 weeks BEFORE the SumaGreen treated side.

Imagine the REAL difference if both were treated at the same time?


Contact us about results on corn, soy beans, forage, tobacco, cotton, wheat, tomato and any other crop you can think of growing.

Friday, October 4, 2013

Laying Sod Made Easy


Here are simple steps to a Do it your own Sod lawn.

Measuring & ordering ---- Sod is usually sold by the square foot. Get the width times length to determine your square feet you need. If you have an unusual shape make a sketch of the lawn, with the length, width, and any unusual features to help determine the amount of turfgrass sod you will need for your area. Schedule the sod order for delivery after preparatory work is completed and you are ready to install. Prompt installation on the day of delivery is crucial to a strong beginning for your lawn. 


Soil preparation ----- New Lawn - Grade to slope away from home, fill in all depressions, so no water lays. Leave final grade 1" below sidewalks and curbs. Add SumaGreen Turf at a rate of 2 oz per 1000 sq/ft on to the soil. Old Lawn - Strip old grass and thatch layer to bare soil or completely destroy old lawn with rototiller and repeat
the steps above.


Sod installation
--- Begin installing turf along the longest straight line, such as the driveway or sidewalk. Push edges against each other tightly, without stretching. Avoid gaps or overlaps. Stagger the joints in each row in a brick-like fashion, using a large sharp knife to trim corners, etc. Avoid leaving small strips at outer edges as they will not retain moisture. On slopes, place the turf pieces across the slope.


After installing the turf  roll the entire area to improve turf soil contact and remove air pockets. Water in with SumaGreen Turf at a rate of 2 oz per 1000 sq/ft as soon as a sizable area has been sodded (total used 4 oz per 1000 sq/ft during process). Give your new lawn 1 inch of water within the 1/2 hour of installation. Water daily, or more often, keeping turf moist until firmly rooted. Without SumaGreen Turf this process could take as long as two – three weeks but with SumaGreen Turf it should start taking root in 7-10 days. By the second week you should be able to cut back on watering in as the roots have started to take shape deeper in the ground.
Weather conditions will dictate the amount and frequency of watering. Be certain that your new lawn has enough moisture to survive hot, dry, or windy periods. Water areas near building more often where reflected heat dries the turf.


Caution --- Normally during the first three weeks after sod has been laid you would avoid heavy or concentrated use of your new lawn. This gives the roots an opportunity to firmly knit with the soil, and insures that the turf will remain smooth. But with SumaGreen Turf you should be able to at least enjoy the lawn (depending on weather conditions) after two weeks. Any heavy playing on sod, like an athletic field, we recommend 3-4 weeks to get the roots to grow deeper, and stronger. This will at longer life to the grass due to the cutting and maintenance of the turf.
Maintenance --- Your new sod will increase your property value significantly. With proper care using the SumaGreen Turf you will only need to treat about 3-4 times a year and you will notice weeds will have a hard time appearing in your sod. It will remain a great asset, providing beauty, clean playing surface, and an improved environment.


***TIPS-- A trick of the trade is to order 5% more than what your measurements are, to allow for trimming and waist.


Our products work just as good on existing grass like Bermuda, Fescue, even Kentucky Bluegrass.

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Can Mulch KILL your Tree?

This is a subject of much interest because the trees are suffering. When the soil around a tree gets too high, problems develop. This can occur naturally but is more often caused by people. People who love their trees are hurting and even killing their trees for lack of knowledge. To much mulch around a tree could actually KILL your tree.

Soil is one thing, mulch is another. The difficulty is that both cause problems for trees when applied incorrectly and mulch, good organic mulch that is, becomes soil eventually. The deeper the mulch around the tree trunk the worse the situation for the tree.

Landscapers and builders/developers (sometimes the same but sometimes different companies or different people) cause damage to trees in the normal course of their respective business. Builders prepare the land for building structures and landscapers make the prepared land beautiful. After scraping the earth with heavy equipment the landscapers, and sometimes the builder/developer bring in soil to cover the land for various reasons. The soil level gets raised. Any pre-existing trees that were preserved have to cope with an unhealthy high soil level that actually comes as a mix of detriment and benefit. High soil levels hurt, but new rich soil helps (as long as it does not get to high on the existing tree trunk.

Sometimes homeowners feel it is a good idea to make rings around the trunks of trees by removing the grass and then covering the bare soil with mulch. Sometimes the soil around the trunk will be cultivated, augmented and raised. Then flowers will be planted there. This practices is not good for the trees.

In this picture you can see what TOO MUCH (or to high) mulch can do to a tree at the base of the tree.

Friday, April 20, 2012

Science Fair is No competition for SumaGreen


We at SumaGreen would like to Congratulate Kylie Elwell in winning her Third Grade Science Fair in her experiment with SumaGreen. Her project compared SumaGreen, fertilizer and a control (nothing). Marigolds were each planted with 8 seeds in a planter. SumaGreen had seed germination of 8 of 8 seeds, fertilizer had 3 of 8 seeds germinate and Control had 2 of 8 seeds germinate. Over all out of over 120 participants she won her category. If you have any pictures or Science Fair winners please send them in.